Kokawa-dera
粉河寺
A Buddhist temple built for quiet — halls, gardens and incense smoke.
What this place is
Kokawa-dera (粉河寺) is a Buddhist temple located in the Kokawa neighborhood of the city of Kinokawa, Wakayama Prefecture Japan.It belongs to the Tendai sect of Japanese Buddhism and its honzon (primary image) is an absolute hibutsu (secret/hidden) statue of Senjū Kannon Bosatsu, which has never been displayed to the public.In Japanese Buddhist temples, if the principal image is a secret image, a substitute statue called an "omaetachi" is often placed in front of the principal image's altar, but at Kokawa-dera, the "omaetachi" statue is also a secret image.The principal image is said to be buried in a container underground beneath the main hall to prevent fires.The "omaetachi" statue is only opened once a year on December 31 for cleaning by monks connected with the temple - lay people have no opportunity to view it.The temple's full name is Kazaragi-san Kokawa-dera (風猛山 粉河寺) .
Background text from Wikipedia (CC BY-SA)
Why it is worth the trip
- Main halls housing Buddhist statuary, some of it designated National Treasure or Important Cultural Property.
- Gardens designed to be looked at rather than walked through — raked gravel, moss, borrowed mountain scenery.
- Wooden architecture with deep eaves and joinery assembled without nails, often rebuilt over many centuries.
What you can do here
- Light incense at the burner and waft the smoke over yourself before entering the main hall.
- Sit on the veranda facing the garden — that is the intended way to see it, and it costs nothing extra.
- Receive a goshuin seal, or try a short zazen / sutra-copying session where offered.
- Walk the temple's pagoda, bell tower and sub-temples; many stay open later than the main hall.
Photos
Photos from Wikimedia Commons — click any image for the photographer and licence.
Getting there by public transport
Good to know before you go
- Remove your shoes where indicated and carry them in the plastic bag provided.
- Keep voices low inside halls; photography of the principal image is often prohibited.
- Autumn foliage and spring blossom seasons bring long queues — go right at opening.
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